The Camino

June 11 – the day before starting

patrick — Sat, 11 Jun 2005 16:48:36 +0000

The trip to Saint-Jean Pied-de-Port was wonderful. The train meandered between hills and followed the river valley. Saint-Jean is a touristic village and a border village; it reminded me of another similar village in Northern France, Sierck-les-Bains. Today, it has been overcast. Now it is clearer. I met an Italian man and his son, and it seems that many people are on their way to Santiago. I’m worried that it might be crowded.

I walked around in Saint-Jean and felt free.

The Pyrenees. The camino is going upp, on the left.

The main street in St Jean Pied-de-Port. A typical village in the south of France, lovely in summer time.

The river in St Jean Pied-de-Port. Isn’t it like a postcard?

Another view of the main street. I hade a room somewhere on the left side.

Basque cross, Lauburu, not representing exactly what I thought at first, see Wikipedia.

June 12 – to Roncesvalles

patrick — Sun, 12 Jun 2005 17:36:10 +0000

It was a tough day, starting at 7 am and arriving at 3 pm. The trail mostly went uphill, rising significantly by 1200 m over 20 km. Despite the challenge, the scenery was breathtakingly beautiful. The worst part of the day was probably the descent to Roncesvalles after reaching the top. It was steep and hard on the knees and hips.

In Roncesvalles, I met Livio, the Italian man, and his son. We stayed in a dormitory that had about 100 beds, which resembled an old church hall. It’s a pity I didn’t take any pictures because it was such a funny place. There were about a hundred people sleeping in the same room, some of them snoring and talking in their sleep. Unfortunately, there was a thunderstorm during the night and it started to rain inside the dormitory.

Before I began my walk, I had developed a blister, but it hasn’t caused any significant problems so far.

The Pyrénées. Looking back. Still early in the morning, but it’s already warm.

Going up, and up. Never ending.

It looks like if I had reached the top…

But no… The pass is about 1400 m over the sea.

And now down to Roncevallles. I didn’t took the shortest way, it was too abrupt.

Very quite in Roncevalles. I signed upp for the night. There is a church on the right.

I ate at the restaurant at the right. I was sleeping in a house somewhere on the left.

June 13 – to Larrasoaña

patrick — Mon, 13 Jun 2005 20:49:09 +0000

Started to walk at half past eight with Livio and Manu. The first 20 km were easy, but the last ten were difficult. It took as long as yesterday, although the way did not go up. The way to Santiago seems to have become a small community. The ramblers are already finding their place and their roles, which is funny. A lot of people have disappeared today, perhaps they stayed in Zubrini or went further. Others have arrived. The refugio is full. I have not eaten since breakfast but feel okay. Eating in Spain is quite expensive.

Puente de la Rabia de Zubiri, wonderful. There is lot of fine bridges along the camino.

Tired feet. It’s quite flat today, but more difficult than yesterday. Not used to walk so much.

Not everithing is beautiful on the camino. A huge industry after Zubrini.

Hailing in Larrasoaña. It has been warm today, but like yesterday in the evening there was a thunderstorm.

Three riders. I don’t know if they were pilgrims.

June 14 – to Cizur Minor

patrick — Tue, 14 Jun 2005 08:25:13 +0000

It could have been an easy day, just 20 km. But I ended up walking at least 30 km. Manu and I separated from Livio in Pamplona. Later, Manu decided to find his father, so I went to Cizur. But I got worried about Manu, so I went back to Pamplona. I asked everyone I met, but no one had seen them. Finally, I found them. Phew. Some people talk about the Camino as if it were a kind of Paris-Dakar rally, treating it as a performance and giving you technical tips on socks, equipment, and anecdotes you don’t want to hear. Had a pleasant evening with people from Canada, Germany, Italy, France, Sweden, the USA, Brazil, and Spain…

Akerreta – A small village after Larrasoaña. It was still rainy when we started in the morning.

There is a lot of beautiful bridges along the Camino. Beginning to be warm.

Is it dry now? It was quite humid during the first stages. Not everything was drying during the night.

You need to wash clothes every evening. High standard in Cizur Minor, you need to stand on bricks.

It’s hot at the end of the day. Some of us will sleep in the old church in Cizur Minor. They hope it will not be so warm. Anyway, it’s a very nice place.

Linda, Iris and Lily in front of the albergue in Cizur Menor.

Dinner in Cizur Minor. Friends from germany, France, Canada, Brazil and Italy.

Diner in Cizur Minor. We spoke about passion, somethong which made Marcel Leboeuf (standing) enthusiastic.

You can stretch everywhere. Carole never miss an opportunity.

June 15 – to Puente la reina

patrick — Wed, 15 Jun 2005 10:05:07 +0000

Easy stage, 20 km. But it’s always the same; the last hour is always one hour too much, and it was very hot. Walked a while with Rita from Switzerland, a 70-year-old pig woman who collects rocks and goes from refugio to refugio. Some people run from her as she sometimes gives a lecture on the Swiss political system. We went up to El Perdón, where “the road of the wind meets the road of the stars”.

We had a long break at a beautiful octagonal church, Santa María de Eunate. It was a little difficult to be here and now, and I felt a bit like Don Quixote today. All of us have been reading a lot of books and guides about the Camino before we started.

We saw mills at El Perdón…

On our way to El Perdón.

Beginning to go up to El Perdón. A lot of wind mills.

Sculptures and statists at El Perdón.

Break runt a fountain. Beginning to be warm.

Red poppies somewhere betwen Cizur Minor and Guenduláin.

Santa Mariá de Eunate. A very nice, octagonal church. It’s nice to go around, bare foot, on the paving stones. It’s like massage. A german friend meditating, or may be just resting. It was hot.

Leaving Santa María de Eunate. On our way to Puente la Reina.

Gunilla from Östersund and Patrick.

Puente la Reina, here is the “puente”.

Tomaso, Margerita and Manu, some of the most sympathetic pilgrims I met.

There is a lot of people from Italy on the camino. Marcus, in blue, from Brazil.

Tomaso, Manu and Margerita. Diner in Puente la Reina. A lot interesting to listen to…

Livio is tired. I have forgot the name of the man and the woman behind him.

June 16 – to Estella

patrick — Thu, 16 Jun 2005 20:09:51 +0000

Hard day. Livio and Manu walked away from me; I could not walk as fast as they do. The roads were poor, and it was very, very hot. The evening was more pleasant. I met Carole and Virginie, and we had a beer downtown. Later, we ate together with a group of Spaniards. They are incredibly generous and take care of everybody around them. They prepared a big salad in a large bowl we had seen before… And we laughed a lot.

On our way to Estella.

The village of Cirauqui.

Cirauqui, in the center of the village.

Cold water is good for your feet!

To Estella. I was happy when it was cloudy, it was so warm. But fortunately it is easy to find water in the villages.

In front of the albergue. I have forgot the name of the spanish guy who is speaking with Iris.

The main place in Estella. Drinking a beer with Virginie and Carole.

Relaxing. Alex and Carlos taking care of their feet. Hmm… this bowl was very useful…

Yes, it was a useful bowl.

Our spanish friends Carlos, Alex, Ximo, Pepe and some other whos name I forgot, were our cooks this night.

Livio, with the useful bowl, is serving Iris, Alex and Lily.

A lot to listen to.

A lot to talk about.

June 17 – to Los Arcos

patrick — Fri, 17 Jun 2005 10:10:44 +0000

One of the Spaniards had to stop walking due to a knee injury. Half of the Camino is about walking, and the other half is about the people you meet. Today, I walked with Virginie for a while, and we talked a lot. However, there are also less nice people on the Camino.

Dinner tonight was pleasant as well. The Italians were in the kitchen, and a couple of people were drunk. Some have a couple of backpacks to carry…

It was hot today too.

On the way out from Estella.
– Look, a star, I said.
– A mother and her child, Virginie said.

A village after Estella, Irache I believe.

Irache. Did somebody missed it?

Monica, Virginie, Carlotta and Alex. too early in the morning to drink too much…

Beginning to be really hot! And no shadow as long as you can see.

A tree! Yes! Hardly enough place for all of us.

And it’s getting warmer.

Monica is tired.

Virginie give a foot massage to Patrick.

Dinner in Los Arcos. Carmen, her husband (and may be somebody else) cooked this dinner.

Dinner in Los Arcos. A lot of hungry people.

Dinner in Los Arcos.

A lot to speak about, nice weather, nice company.

Some are tired…

Pepe and Carole.

What is Tomaso looking at? A cloud may be…

Carmen and her daughter Margerita.

Monica and Pierre.

June 18 – to Logroño

patrick — Sat, 18 Jun 2005 11:11:27 +0000

It was a tough night, too hot to sleep well. Then, a long day of walking. I walked alone for most of the day and waited for everyone in Viana. I went to Logroño with Virginie, but we got lost. We arrived late at 8 and missed dinner

Carmen, her family, Pepe, and a few other Spaniards ended up here. It’s sad.

My bed is under the roof, and it will be just as warm as last night, without any fresh air. Logroño seems like a nice town though.

Los Arcos, early in the morning, sometimes after 5. You need to begin early if you don’t want to go when it is warm.

My Kingdom for a little shadow! Well, no Kingdom, no shadow…

Dinner in Logroño. Another picture?

Multilingual chat.

Who are you pointing at?

June 19 – to Nájera

patrick — Sun, 19 Jun 2005 11:38:56 +0000

Today was a terrible day. It was really hot, apparently a record. It was boring to walk on a day like this. I walked with Carole and Virginie, and for a while, I thought Virginie would collapse. It was hard. It took us twelve hours to cover just 30 km. I hope the coming days will be easier.

Stork in Nájera.

Meeting with Marcellino (?) outside Logrono. He had fruits, cakes and sticks and gave them to the pilgrims.

Wet, wet. Virginie is suffering. Problem with a knee too.

June 20 – to Santo Domingo de la Calzada

patrick — Mon, 20 Jun 2005 11:52:57 +0000

I don’t remember much about this day. It was warm, but not as much as the day before. There was a thunderstorm in the evening. Oh yes, somebody was snoring at the beginning of the night, but I woke up the wrong person in the dark, which the other pilgrims thought was funny.

Carole is stretching. I’m afraid there was fleas or something like that at this refugio

Virginie writing her diary.

Carole writing diary. You need to be in peace.

Dinner in Santo Domingo de la Calzada. Markus was chef today.

Carole, Georges and Paula.

Carole and Markus smoking. Looking at the thunderstorm.

Livio and Patrizio chatting.

Not stretching.

Patrizio. First he makes you laugh (sometimes with a really dirty story), then he declaims Garcia Lorca! He seduced all of us.